Journey to the edge of Luzon

By Bryan B. Garcia

April 2, 2011, 4:07am

Rough seas quiet down as one enters the beach at the eastern side of Cape Engaño. (Photo by Bryan B. Garcia)

Residents of Sta. Ana, so far up north Cagayan Valley, could actually hear a rooster’s crow all the way from Taiwan.

That’s the common joke among the Cagayan Valley folk but something that gullible tourists find easy to believe.

After all, Sta. Ana is often referred to as Luzon’s last frontier because it lies at the farthest end of the Cagayan region at the northeastern tip of Luzon.

Recently, the Nothern Philippines Visitors Bureau (NVPB), together with the Manila North Tollways Corporation (MNTC), organized the Lakbay Norte tour geared towards the promotion of key tourist destinations in northern Luzon.  Its first stop was at this northern- most municipality of Sta. Ana.

After landing at the Tuguegarao airport, the party set on a 158 kilometer trip on the way to Sta. Ana. The three-hour trip provided a quick and rolling glance of the Cagayan province landscape as well as the lifestyle of its residents. The agricultural roots are very evident with the rural areas of province where time seems to flow at a slower pace and life is very much laidback. The vast rice fields, overgrown trees, rickety bridges, rusty jeepneys, decrepit graveyards along with wide eyed and often curious stares from the locals contribute to the overall rustic vibe of the community.

Upon reaching the municipality of Sta. Ana, the group stayed at the Cagayan Holiday and Leisure Resort, otherwise known as Sun City. Aside from its leisure accommodations, the luxurious resort also has a gaming facility usually frequented by Taiwanese and Chinese high-rollers. Apparently, this is not something new in Sta. Ana since there are other establishments, such as the Eastern Hawaii Casino Hotel and Resort, which is also a favorite spot of international rollers.

The morning after was met with hard rain and strong winds, which made the Lakbay Norte group’s trip to nearby Palaui Island a rough one. Standing at the San Vicente Port, the ominous skies promised less than perfect weather. However, the group still braved the high seas just to heed the call of the mysterious island looming in the distance.

While approaching Palaui Island, an unexpected thrill shoots up from within. Perhaps it’s from the magnitude of the cliffs that stands tall against the constant bombardment of crashing waves, or maybe the sheer beauty of an untouched landscape. Whatever the cause was, something was awakened deep inside, an insatiable need to fulfill the quest for discovery.

The revelry ceased when the islands coastline opened up to a cove that embodies the island’s remote location. Different shades of green line the jungle’s canopy, a short distance from the shoreline. Except for the remnants of a marina that has long been destroyed, one would believe that very few have set foot on Siwangag Cove’s beaches.  In fact, the cove serves as a regular refuge for seafaring vessels under distress from unfriendly seas. What has been a protected area since 1994 is also home to about 105 households. Aside from the beach, travelers may also explore the cove’s trails leading deep into its dipterocarp forest.

From the island’s western shores, the group journeyed further to its northern tip. Because of the potentially menacing weather, the group had to battle unusually strong waves in order to reach the next spot. Trudging precariously amid open seas, the outrigger boats held its own despite nervous glances and muffled shrieks from its passengers.

The destination however, was well worth the hazardous journey as the group was met by the turquoise colored waters and the white sands of Cape Engaño. A pan of the landscape would start at the open waters of the Philippine Sea to the picturesque stretch which abruptly changes from sand to thick vegetation and ends at the sight of a towering cape with a lighthouse on top.

A trek towards elevated ground would reveal the majesty of the beach as the transitions between the sea’s changing hues can be clearly plotted while Palaui’s massive mountainous areas soften the backdrop. The calm seascape overlooking the cape presents a contrast to what’s at the other side. Separated by green meadows inhabited by grazing buffalos, the eastern side of the cape catches some mean waves creating a scene that would often be depicted in movies as uncharted islands off the coast of nowhere.

Erected on top of the cliff are the ruins of Cape Engaño, which serves as the only remnants of the time when the Spanish laid claim to the area. The lighthouse, which was built during the late 18th century, shares its years with its aged walls and crumbling façade. The spot also offers a great view of the Hermanas Islands, two islands just off the coast of Palaui which, legends claim, are “twin sisters who waited in vain for their lovers who never came.”

The trip to Sta. Ana and the journey to Palaui Island served as an eye opener. Even though there weren’t any audible cock crows from the cape or any of the spots in the island, the sound of crashing waves, bellowing winds and astonished sighs were enough to fill anyone’s longing for adventure and satisfy any need for exploration.

How to get there:

To get there by air, fly to Tuguegarao airport via Cebu Pacific or Philippine Airlines. Catch a Don Domingo Bus going to Sta. Ana, Cagayan. If you plan to go there by land from Manila, Florida Bus Lines in Sampaloc drives directly to Sta. Ana. From there, proceed to the San Vicente Port where outrigger boats are docked and are ready to ferry anyone around Palaui Island.

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