Adobo By Any Other Name

By SOL VANZI

Adobong Pusit (Photo by RUDY LIWANAG)

MANILA, Philippines — Adobo is probably the most popular dish in the Philippines, where there are as many variations as there are towns. In the Bicol region, adobo is often flavored with coconut cream. Some Pangasinan natives add Bagoong Alamang. In Cavite, turmeric (luyang dilaw) is required when making Adobong Hito (catfish), and young Alagaw leaves harvested from the trees for Pagi (sting ray), Palos (eel) or Pating (shark) adobo.

BASIC MEAT ADOBO – The basic ingredients of Filipino adobo are salt, black pepper, vinegar and bay leaves. The use of soy sauce in lieu of, or to supplement, salt is a recent development credited to Chinese migrants and traders.

To make the popular chicken or pork adobo, the cut meat is marinated for several hours in vinegar, salt, crushed (or whole) black pepper and soy sauce. The meat is browned slowly on all sides in a little oil, after which the crushed garlic is stirred in to develop a light golden brown hue. Contrary to popular belief, garlic should not be mixed with the marinade as it could burn and turn bitter when fried simultaneously with the meat.

Water and bay leaves are added to the boiling meat and marinade, and the pot is covered tightly and allowed to simmer slowly for 30 minutes (for chicken) and up to 45 minutes (for pork).

Once the meat is tender, the cook can decide whether to make a dry adobo or one with gravy. For dry adobo, the pot is uncovered after the meat is tender and the whole thing is allowed to simmer until the liquid is reduced. For adobo with gravy, a few cooks thicken the sauce with corn starch dissolved in water.

For mixed chicken-pork adobo cooked in the same pot, the browned pork is simmered first with the browned chicken added after 20 minutes.

ADOBONG KANGKONG – For best results, use only the stems to avoid a mushy bowl of cooked leaves. Fry garlic in oil, add vinegar, salt, soy sauce, bay leaf. Taste for seasonings and stir in the kangkong stems over high heat. Once the stems turn dark green, the dish is done.

ADOBONG SITAW – It is advised that the cut green beans be blanched in boiling water as acid will keep the pieces from getting tender. Once blanched, the sitaw may be drained and cooked following the Adobong Kangkong recipe.

ADOBONG TALABA OR TAHONG – The shellfish has to be blanched to open, then shucked. The shelled meat, drained, may then be cooked using the Adobong Kangkong recipe. Use very little liquid at the start; the shellfish will give off a lot of its own.

Adobong tahong and talaba are classic toppings for Pancit Malabon and Pancit Luglog. They are also conversation pieces as hors d’oeuvres atop crackers, cucumber slices or cherry tomatoes.

ADOBONG HITO – Black native catfish should be cleaned well and cut into serving pieces.  Crushed turmeric (luyang dilaw), minced garlic and whole black peppercorns are sautéed in vegetable oil until aromatic. Fish pieces are added and stirred around until the skin is taut. Salt, vinegar and bay leaves (optional) are added and the pot is covered tightly, allowing the fish to simmer very slowly over a low flame, taking care that the pot does not dry out and burn the fish skin.

ADOBONG HITO SA GATA – This dish could be made from leftover Adobong Hito or made from scratch. If using leftovers, simply pour pure coconut cream over the cooked fish and simmer until the gata (coconut cream) is thick and oily. Long green hot peppers may be added for those who like spicy food.

ADOBONG PAGI – Sting ray has to be parboiled briefly in vinegared water to facilitate the removal of its thick skin. The skinned meat is stir-fried in oil with a lot of garlic and black pepper; vinegar and bay leaves are added when garlic turns light brown.  A little water is necessary to keep the fish from drying out and burning.

In several Tagalog towns, light green young Alagaw leaves are mixed in to cook with the pagi to neutralize the wild taste.

ADOBONG DILIS O DULONG – This is the recipe applicable to small fish cooked adobo style, just like the type sold in jars or cans. Best cooked in a kawali (thick wok).

In ½ cup vegetable oil, slowly fry 4 tbsp crushed garlic until aromatic but before browning. Add ¼ cup vinegar and 3 tbsp soy sauce. Sprinkle with crushed black pepper, a few bay leaves and several pieces red chili peppers.  Once the mixture boils, turn down the heat and very carefully add the small fish, making sure each layer is coated with the simmering oil mixture to prevent them cooking in lumps.

One has to be patient and not raise the heat ; doing so will break the small fish into pieces, which will end up mashed. Keep the kawali (wok) uncovered throughout to allow the liquids to evaporate.

CRISPY ADOBO FLAKES – First elevated into gourmet restaurant fare by Larry Cruz (of LJC fame), crispy adobo flakes are the result of tender pork (or chicken) adobo, cooked dry, and carefully deboned. The boneless cooked meat is flaked by hand, re-seasoned (especially the dry chicken breasts) and crisped by frying slowly in a thick iron pan.

Adobo flakes are great sprinkled over fried garlic rice, Pancit Malabon or Pancit Palabok, served with green mango and bagoong, and with plain boiled okra and eggplants. I’ve also tried it Thai-style in place of crispy catfish in a pomelo salad. A French chef used it to replace smoked salmon over fluffy scrambled eggs
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