Friday, March 30, 2012

A hideaway where birds and bamboos bring bliss


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Lawiswis Kawayan, nestled within a quiet community in Calumpit town in Bulacan where the sound of chirping birds and swaying bamboos and the relaxed feeling one gets after a good massage can bring only bliss. Video by INQUIRER.net’s Cathy Miranda

MANILA, Philippines – Have you ever eagerly packed your bags and headed out of the city for a vacation, expecting peace and quiet while lying on the sand in some far-off paradise only to find it swarming with other vacationers?
Getting away from the strains of work and the hustle and bustle of the metropolis may sound divine but it requires a lot of work to find a place where one can simply relax—when everyone else has the same agenda.
Well, fret not, for there is a resort spa just hours from Metro Manila offering peace and quiet the way you like it.

Photo by Matikas Santos
Lawiswis Kawayan is nestled within a quiet community in Calumpit town in Bulacan where the sound of chirping birds and swaying bamboos and the relaxed feeling one gets after a good massage can bring only bliss.
Built six years ago as a rest house by its owners, Angel and Aldrin Aldaba who have been married for almost 12 years, Lawiswis Kawayan gradually evolved from what Angel described as a parcel of land which was bare save for several mango trees into a mini sort of paradise much enjoyed by their clients.
Named after an old song, the Aldabas first thought of the resort as a romantic place for couples who want to enjoy nature.
Angel said that they wanted guests to feel comfortable and at home. Think: home but better.
“I think that’s what sets us apart from other resorts. We really maintain simplicity of the place—there is no exaggeration. There’s no noise during the day except for the chirping of the birds,” said Angel. She also said that the fragrance from Ylang-Ylang flowers which waft throughout the resort in the afternoon were enough to soothe nerves strained from hour after hour of work in the city.

Photo by Matikas Santos
The resort is situated in Buguion village in Calumpit. But as Angel said, “While you would expect resorts by the highway where it can be easily seen—our place is kind of secluded, like a hideaway. We call it the serene hideaway in the north.”
The couple told INQUIRER.net that it all started when they fenced off the property, passed on to Aldrin by his parents, and built on it a rest house supposedly for their use during breaks and was later on rented out for functions like weddings.
“There were no structures here [before and] we fenced up the place for the family but later on it was rented out as a venue for baptisms, weddings,” she added, pointing out that the idea on adding more rooms, open cabanas, a conference room and swimming pools to the place came from their guests.
“There was even no pool in the beginning,” Angel quipped, saying that guests asked whether they could add a swimming pool, open cabanas, a conference room, and later on a spa.
She said that they started with questions of how they could better enjoy the place and thought “we probably will enjoy lying down by the pool. So we placed cushions in the poolside cabanas.
Flanking the pool are wide open cabanas with plush cushions and rattan chaise lounges—something which the owners called their “pool sala”.
“Guests can just lounge [there] while watching their children play,” Angel explained, adding that they also built a spa for guests who told them that they also wanted massages during their vacation.
But an even greater feat for the Aldaba couple was providing rooms for their guests. They now boast of 19 rooms, each with its own television and air-conditioning unit.
Now you may be asking why a resort only has that many rooms for guests and Angel said that they really did cater more for private groups and families.
Lawiswis Kawayan was made “for those who want it quiet—those who want it intimate for family gatherings. That is out target market. For a minimum of about a hundred people the whole place is automatically made private—we will not accept any more guests. That group can enjoy the whole place to themselves,” Angel stated.
The resort prepares meals for their clients but should guests want to bring in their own food, Angel explains that they will pose no corkage fee for those. “They can even grill food—have a picnic. There’s no corkage fee for food except if they avail of a catering service from outside or bring in alcoholic beverages.”

Photo by Matikas Santos
For those on a company outing, Lawiswis Kaawayan also has team building materials “mostly bamboo inspired like the kadang-kadang where you walk on bamboo stilts,” Angel added.
She said that all these amenities, developed and added in six years’ time, made all the difference as their clients told them how relaxing the resort spa was.
But facing ordeals behind the scenes in order to provide the best experience to guests almost made the Aldabas question whether the decision to open Lawiswis Kawayan had been right.
“Putting everything in one basket, we were worried whether tama ba yung decision naming because we only had little savings at pagpapabakod at pagpapadamo pa lang [mahal na]. We had three children who were still little at the time. Sa aming magasawa, nakakastress ang pagpunta dito,” said Angel.
She said that running the resort “was a lot of work for us, a lot of pressure. Ang daming trials along the way but God told us that he gave us a place we only dreamt of—and we would still complain. We realized that we had been so ungrateful.”
Angel said that what she and Aldrin would sit on the swing under a mango tree at the heart of the resort and open a bottle of wine whenever there were problems or whenever there were no guests.
“My husband and I would open a bottle of wine, kwentuhan na lang. We started enjoying the place then. We thought, oo nga naman. How could we complain [when the place we were given] looked like this,” she added.
It was when they started appreciating Lawiswis Kawayan for the gift that it was that their business bloomed, said Aldrin who pointed out that that was the time they were able to build a three-storey structure in the area.
For more information on Lawiswis Kawayan, visit their website at www.lawiswiskawayanresort.com or call these numbers 02 425 9715, 0917 811 2332, or 0922 861 2332.
Interested parties may also send them an e-mail at info@lawiswiskawayanresort.com or  lawiswis.kawayan@yahoo.com.

And when in Cebu City, please do visit gregmelep.com for a more enjoyable and peaceful retirement place.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

The Secrets To Real Sinigang


The Secrets To Real Sinigang

TIMPLA'T TIKIM
By SOL VANZI

Sinigang na Hipon (www.angpilipino.com)
Sinigang na Hipon (www.angpilipino.com)
MANILA, Philippines — Like most Filipinos, I can eat sinigang daily for a month and not get tired of it, because sinigang is not one specific dish but a method of stewing fish, prawns, chicken, beef or pork in a broth soured by fresh fruit and enriched with a wide variety of vegetables.
Contrary to popular belief and practice, sinigang is not a free-for-all hodgepodge of anything available. There are strict rules still followed by traditional home cooks and by those of us lucky enough to have trained in the kitchen with our grandparents, in the good old days before the advent of instant mixes.
START WITH THE BROTH – Whenever possible, I save the hugas-bigas (water from the second rinsing of rice) for use in fish sinigang. The rinse water, cloudy with starch from the grains’ surface, provides for a thicker, richer broth; there’s added benefits from the nutrients washed off the rice.
Rice water is not as necessary for any meat sinigang, as animal gelatin dissolves and thickens the broth during the long simmering process.
ONIONS AND TOMATOES – Onions and tomatoes are the basic ingredients present in all sinigang variants, and there are secrets to releasing their flavors. Lola taught me to slice onions and very ripe tomatoes and mash them well in a bowl with coarse salt before adding the whole thing into the pot of broth.
PAMPA-ASIM – The heart and soul of sinigang is the souring agent that gives the dish its identifying tart flavor. In Tagalog homes, these are: talbos ng sampalok (young tamarind leaves), green tamarind fruit, ripe but sour tamarind fruit, green mango, ripe guava and kamias (fresh or dried).
Calamansi is hardly used for sinigang, but reserved for fish pinangat. One reason is the bitter flavor from the oils of the skin, the seeds and the pith (the white layer between the skin and the flesh.
Meats are cooked with the young leaves, green and ripe fruit of tamarind; another meat souring agent is fruit or green mango; kamias is considered too mild for meats and is used mainly for fish and shrimps, just like ripe guava.
With the exception of tamarind leaves, sinigang souring agents are normally boiled in the broth until soft, retrieved and mashed in a bowl with more broth, then returned to the pot.
FRUGAL SHORTCUTS – When tamarind fruit, kamias and green mango are in season, I boil and mash them, remove sediments with a sieve, and freeze the gooey liquid in ice trays. Once frozen, the sour cubes are transferred to ziplock bags for use whenever I make sinigang.
Two other frozen sinigang shortcuts are: mashed, sliced onions and ripe tomatoes and the versatile ginisa mix of sautƩed garlic, onions and tomatoes.
ADDING VEGGIES – When making fish or shrimp sinigang, the vegetables to add to the simmering broth (before the fish and souring agent but after the mashed onion-tomato mix) are: eggplant, long beans (sitaw), okra, kangkong (or green camote tops) and long green peppers.
For meat sinigang, the vegetables are sitaw, eggplants, okra, kangkong, whole young sweet bell peppers and long green hot peppers. Exclusively for meat are tender young knobs of elephant ear yams called Gabing Anak because they sprout like oversized blisters on the main root that is, in turn, affectionately called Gabing Ina.
When in season, farmers add squash shoots and the white flowers of the Katuray tree to any sinigang.
There is a formula for timing when the vegetables are added, because acid from the souring agent makes it difficult to properly cook eggplants, long beans, gabi and okra. To solve this, some cooks pre-cook these vegetables in the sinigang broth before the sour stuff is mixed in, take the veggies out and return the veggies to the pot at serving time.
GINGER YES OR NO – Ginger is one ingredient that is the object of debate as far as sinigang is concerned. Most cooks agree that ginger is a must for fish sinigang, and almost all agree that Sinampalukang Manok (Chicken Sinigang in Tamarind Leaves) would taste different without ginger.
BOILED OR SAUTEED MISO – Very few young cooks know that miso should be sautĆ©ed in garlic, onions, ginger and tomato; they instead prefer the lazy method of adding everything to boiling water. They do not realize that by doing this, they omit the crucial step which provides depth of flavor and the smoky richness of vegetables caramelized slowly in hot oil.
No matter how miso is incorporated into the stew, it is not a souring agent and therefore needs either kamias, tamarind or mango to round up the sinigang’s complex blend of flavors. By the way, there are three kinds of miso in the public market: beige, yellow and light brown with chocolate-hued.
Mustard leaves (dahon ng mustasa) are a must to complete the sinigang sa miso, although Tagalog pechay is an acceptable substitute.
Purists insist that only freshwater fish like Kanduli (white lake catfish) and bangus should be cooked in miso. We have, however, found the recipe excellent for heads and tails of imported pink salmon, local tuna and tanigue (Spanish mackerel).
REAL SINAMPALUKAN – Any Caviteno knows that Sinampalukan means only one thing: chicken, preferably native, sautĆ©ed in garlic, onions, tomatoes, ginger and minced young tamarind leaves then simmered in broth until tender. Tamarind flowers are never used; they leave a pakla taste that does not translate to English. Sinampalukan often requires additional souring from the boiled pulp of green mango or young tamarind fruit
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Sunday, March 25, 2012

An Institute For Organic Farmers


By ZAC B. SARIAN
MANILA, Philippines — The ongoing trend is production of healthy foods, which means naturally-farmed food products that are not sprayed with chemical pesticides or meat products that are laced with antibiotics.
The problem is that there are no well established institutions where interested individuals can learn the fine points of organic agriculture. Most of the seminars are conducted by individuals who have been practicing the techniques of organic agriculture. The curriculum is not included in formal institutions of learning such as the colleges of agriculture and state universities.
Of course, the pioneering individuals are doing good service to the movement. Naturally, if the training is well organized, it could become a healthy partnership of the government and private sector.
Probably that was what was in the mind of Dr. Francisco de la Pena Jr. when he decided to put up about a couple of years ago his Natural Farming Institute in Panabo City. After all, he is the founder of two colleges in Davao del Norte, one in Tagum and the other in Panabo.
So far, he has established showcases of naturally farmed pigs, chickens, goat, vegetables, banana, papaya and even bangus. He has formulated an organic fish feed (he is a fisheries expert with a PhD degree), and has vermiculture bins for the production of organic fertilizer. The institute also has a fermentation house where fermented juices of fruits and plant materials are processed for application in organic farming.
The first batch of trainees came from Davao City consisting mostly of barangay officials. The strategy is to train the higher ups in the community so they can influence their constituents to adopt organic farming techniques more effectively.
One of the most active barangay captains is Jimmy Poliquit of Davao City who has put up his own projects of raising organic pigs and chickens. He is now readying a program whereby the barangay funds will be used to support the dispersal of chickens and pigs among interested barangay members. He stressed, however, that before any recipient is given his pigs or chickens, he will have to undergo training.
Trainees at the Farming Institute of Dr. de la PeƱa also come from other provinces. For instance, the officials and council members of Maribojoc, Bohol, including Mayor Leoncio Evasco, have undergone training in Panabo
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Thursday, March 22, 2012

Mila's Tokwa't Baboy


By GENE GONZALES

Pleasures of the Table

Pako Salad
Pako Salad
MANILA, Philippines — In one of the events I had attended in Angeles City, Pampanga, I chanced upon the very friendly and young Executive Chef and Food and Beverage Manager of Century Hotel (at the back of PAGCOR) who had recommended Mila’s Tokwa’t Baboy located on San Andres St. Barangay Sto Domingo, Angeles City, Pampanga. This is very well known among residents of Angeles and San Fernando and has been an institution having been serving meals for more than two decades.
Mila’s is essentially an eatery that specializes in pork. It serves its sizzling sisig chopped in a crisp fried version rather than grilled and also serves a tokwa’t baboy version that I prefer because of the presence of more crisp pork ear cartilage on the mix. It also has a crispy pork face which is a rightful rival to crispy pata.
A truly and dangerously delicious order of chicken bulaklak sets me on the razor’s edge having its crisp gossamer exterior and a chewy but not fatty center that has been shed off of excess lard. Imang Mila’s kitchen truly knows how this delicacy is prepared because oftentimes, it is just an exercise in eating encased grease in other restaurants. The flavors are also clean and rid of the funk that comes with the serving of offal in many establishments.
Aside from the pork selections, many of my young companions found the pancit luglug to be deliciously “different”. It turns out this was made the old fashioned way using a good stock, a guisado using good rendered pork fat that gives you a very classic, country-style flavor. Mila’s is also very well known for its pako or fern salad. For 150 pesos, you can get a hefty platter, heaped with fresh fern tendrils, tomatoes, red onions and likerol slices of salted red duck egg. All you have to do is toss the sweet sour vinaigrette and the salad becomes a great side dish to cut the richness of the pork or meat courses.
Anybody who isn’t into pork can order the goat kaldereta which has been simmered to a decent tenderness and pairs itself to the cold beers they serve.
A word to those who linger and do marathon-style beer guzzling - the place is open only up to ten o’clock

When in Cebu City, please visit gregmelep.com and enjoy the taste of Southern Philippines.

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Anglers, Burial, And A Crash



By MA. GLAIZA LEE
Puning Hot Spring
Puning Hot Spring
MANILA, Philippines — "Boarding! Boarding! Boarding!” shouted the man in charge of our tour while we, the eager adventurers, animatedly scurried to hop on the Victory bus which would be our home for the next nine days  of Lakbay Norte 3, a media tour of the Northern Philippines co-organized by North Philippines Visitors Bureau and Manila North Tollways Corporation.
That call signaled the beginning of an adventurous journey to the unexplored territories of Region 3, one of the four regions in the Philippines that we would be visiting. Armed with our reliable backpacks and undying passion for adventure, we headed to our first destination – the Pinagrealan Cave in Norzagaray, Bulacan.
Just like the other popular caves in Bulacan, Pinagrealan Cave is known for its significant contribution during the Spanish Revolution. Its geographical location, surrounded by hills, fulfilled a major consideration for the Katipuneros to choose it as their hideout during the Spanish war in 1896, and again during the Filipino-American War in 1898. It also served as the hiding place of General Emilio Aguinaldo as well as a sanctuary of the Japanese Imperial Army when the Philippines was liberated by the American forces.
Only limited types of species thrive on the hills surrounding the cave. Shrubs, vines, cogon and other plants that can grow on limestone with very thin soil substrate live on them because 85 percent of the whole cave is made up of limestone. With some luck, one can see a few unidentified birds flying over the loose canopies of thickets.
A subterranean network of caverns extending more than a kilometer deep, the cave measures about four meters by 2.5 meters in height and width. Inside the cave is a crystal-clear stream; in some parts, it rises to just up the ankle, but there are other parts that extend up to 200 meters where spelunkers have to swim to penetrate it. If one takes a look closer in the water, he can see several organisms such as shrimps, biya and bivalves. Only a few nocturnal bats live here.
To see the innermost wonders of the cave, one has to wiggle, waggle, waddle, squirm, push and pull amidst the numerous stalactites and stalagmites. One needs to pass several circular sinkholes, columns, domes and flowstones. One even has to climb up the uneven vertical fractures and rock formations that are embedded in the slippery sand-stones.
Bulacan, the province where the cave is located, is one of the seven provinces (other provinces are Aurora, Bataan, Nueva Ecija, Pampanga, Tarlac and Zambales) that comprise Region 3, or the Central Luzon Region. It is the first province off Manila when heading towards the North; hence, the province, as well as the whole region, is considered as the gateway to the Northern Luzon regions. One has to pass through the seven provinces to reach the Ilocos and Cagayan Regions.
With a total land area of 21,470 square kilometers, the region contains the largest plain of the Philippines and produces most of the country's rice supply; hence, it is known as the “Granary of the Philippines.”
THE GRANARY OF ANGLERS
Of the seven provinces, Nueva Ecija has the most rice production. Based on the Philippine Rice Research Institute’s 2007 Rice Figures in the Philippines report, Nueva Ecija has an average production of 1.13 million metric tons since 2002; followed by Isabela, 1.006 MT; Pangasinan, 832,114 MT; Iloilo, 763,893 MT; Cagayan, 548,369 MT; and Tarlac, 469,316 MT. Aside from rice, the province is also the leading producer of onions in South East Asia.
While looking at the verdant rice fields and the industrious farmers harvesting their crops allows us to gather our refreshed senses, we came to the province to explore the reason why farmers can still plant rice despite the hot weather – the Pantabangan Dam.
Built in 1974, the 1.61 kilometer long dam supplies irrigation waters to farmlands in Nueva Ecija and adjoining provinces. Originally, it was built along Pampanaga River to serve as reinforcement against flood. Now, it doesn’t only provide irrigation, it also supplies additional electricity to the Luzon power grid.
But nowadays, the dam serves a different purpose. It is fast-becoming the newest bass fishing hotspot in Asia. Local and international anglers flock here to experience the thrill of catching fish that weigh from an average of one kilo to the heaviest  at seven kilos. They wait patiently for largemouth bass to take the bait.
The lake of the dam is quite conducive to raise American largemouth bass because of its ideal depth, remoteness and right quality of the substrate. The local government supports this sporting activity in the dam, but they enforce bass fishing regulation to protect the balance in the ecosystem.
From the jump-off point, one can bask in the tranquil water surrounded by the lush verdant rolling slopes of the Sierra Madre Mountain Ranges, enveloped by the serene blue sky and the cool mountain breeze. The place offers a scenic sunset view, painting the sky with red and orange hue contrasting with the water’s blue palette.
ARMED AND READY
Not all travels are like the tranquil Pantabangan expedition. Sometimes when traveling, a traveler is put in a situation – like no decent accommodation available in sight, or worst, being trapped in the wilderness – he doesn’t expect and is beyond his control. So, why not head to Subic and give yourself a short course on survival taught by the same indigenous people who helped train the US Navy Seals and Special Forces Units on how to survive in the jungle?
The Aetas of Zambales teach skills in basic mountaineering, fire-building, wildlife identification and other survival techniques. Using the available materials in the jungle, one can make his stay in the wilderness a little bit comfortable. With a bolo and some bamboo, one can make spoons, cups and what have you. Our Aeta guide also taught us how to cook rice and viands using bamboo. For the highlight of the basic survival guide course, a guide creates a full campfire using dried bamboo, without the aid of matches or lighters.
After the lecture, the guide led us into the jungle of Subic, along the Pamulaklakin Trail. There, he showed us what plants can be used as insect repellant and medicinal provisions.
LIFE ON THE FAST LANE
After learning the basics of survival, we went to test our other skills – our driving skill, that is. I was a little nervous, having second thoughts on whether I should try go-karting, an open-wheel motorsport with small, four-wheeled vehicles that race on scaled-down circuits, at the Kart City in Tarlac (another province of Region 3) because I don’t know how to drive. But sometimes, a girl has to do what she has to do.
“There’s the gas, and there’s the break. Step on the gas to accelerate. Break if you must, especially on deep curve. Avoid the engine on your right because it will burn you. Now, let’s try,” said the attendant.
Slowly, I put some pressure on the gas pedal. The engine slowly came to life. Little by little, I set the momentum: should I go faster? What if I lose control? What if – skid, baaaam! I slammed into the walls of tires; luckily the management put them on the sidelines for safety. Thank goodness for the helmet I was wearing. I raised both my arms, indicating that I crashed.
But if you think that crash stopped me from doing another lap, you’re wrong. Karting, for me, is all about the adrenaline rush as the driver maneuvers on the race track with quick reflexes, prĆ©cise control and clever decisions. I even joined the endurance race. For 30 minutes, we would try to make as many laps as we could to beat the other teams. In this type of race, consistency, reliability and good pit strategy are very important more than all out speed.
A SECRET BEAUTY
When Mt. Pinatubo erupted in 1991, all we could see were the death it exacted (an estimated 800 people killed), the disruption in the economy, and the damaged properties costing almost half a billion dollars.
Little did we know that the cataclysmic eruption would create a hidden picturesque wonder. In Sitio Puning, in Porac, Pampanga (via Sitio Target, Sapangbato, Angeles City) lies Puning Hot Spring and Spa, a thermal spring along the Sacobia River. This newest tourist destination in Pampanga has three stations: Station 1 which is the base camp with a garden restaurant, Station 2 which is the spa and massage area, and Station 3 is the hot spring itself.
The travel from Sapangbato to the hot spring is an adventure in itself. Riding a 4x 4 vehicle, we crossed the Sacobia River, passing through slopes and gorges into the lahar canyons and across a desert of sand and ashes. The canyons, well, were surreal. It is as if a master sculptor had carved and shaped them into beautiful work of arts and beauty.
When we arrived at the hot spring, billows of steams greeted us. A magnificent steaming waterfall came into view. Gushes of hot water flow into various pools surrounding the falls. Each pool has a different temperature, ranging from 40 to 70 degrees Celsius.
After dipping into the hot spring, we headed to Station 2, where we had our sand steam and mud spa. There was a whole heap of ceremony involving the “burial” process. First, we changed into robes, with only our underwear on.
Then, we headed into a sand pit where an Aeta lady was holding a shovel. Expect to see many indigenous people working here because the area where the hot spring is located is an ancestral domain of the Aetas. The owners have an agreement with the local government when they got their license and business permit that they shouldn’t displace the people living in the area, and instead would give them job opportunities.
In an open-air shed, several disembodied heads were poking up at regular intervals. The lady attendant signaled us to proceed to the vacant lot. After some shoveling, she motioned for us to lie down with our heads on the white cloth. She proceeded to shovel hot sand onto my body. As the weight of the sand became heavier and heavier, the body muscles became more and more relaxed and sweat began forming on my forehead.
After 15 minutes, I stood up and simply brushed the bulk of the sand off my body. A lady attendant helped me with that using a brush. She then motioned for me to proceed to the mud spa area, where another attendant lathered mud mixture, made from spring water and volcanic ash, on my body. The mixture was cool to the skin, and after some time, began to harden. After 10 minutes, we were allowed to wash off all the mud. It left a smooth and clean feeling.
Land travel in these areas has never been easy. But like what they always say, they are worth the arduous trip if only to experience and see the wonders of Central Luzon
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Monday, March 19, 2012

Uncovering Quaint Stories From Baguio



By LUCCI C. CORAL
Wander Woman

The viewdeck of Kennon Road provides a relaxing stop for travellers.
The viewdeck of Kennon Road provides a relaxing stop for travellers.
MANILA, Philippines — Start daydreaming about summer and you immediately get visions of coconut trees, beaches and bikini-clad girls throwing frisbees to men in board shorts. However, our tropical country which looks like summer all year long chose the extreme opposite for our summer capital. And even if urban-dwellers come back over and over again to Baguio City, its distinct charm never fails to capture our fascination for cold and air-conditioned places.
I remember the first time I went to Baguio, when my mom tagged me along with her for the Advertising Congress. The words I threw were “Wow, anlamig!” “Wow, andaming Christmas trees!” and “Wow, may kabayo!” Those were the times when you wouldn’t mind riding an Isuzu Gemini taxi with its windows open.
Baguio hasn’t changed much since then. But recently, I had the chance to discover the story behind one of its age-long offerings which many may have often disregarded. Kennon Road, a zigzagged road which offers a breathtaking scenic view of lush mountains and waterfalls, has a story which could have been a perfect model of world peace.
Kennon Can!
The reason why I went up to Baguio was to help out and take videos during the launch of the Kennon Global Marathon slated for April 15, 2012. A scenic uphill run which spans up to 21 kilometers, this is definitely more than just a fun run. There are also other alternatives for less athletic individuals, such as the 3km and 5km stretch.
So what’s so special about the Kennon Road? Aside from opening Baguio City to the world, this 41.2 kilometer-stretch is actually the biggest engineering project of the USA of its time, which was constructed from 1900-1905. And what’s even more shocking is that around 2,300-4,000 workers from 46 countries worked for the sole purpose of building that road. Not one, not two, but 46 nationalities! Wow, what an offer! We’re not the first OCWs after all.
It is said that the workers used to have fun weekend bonding nights together. And even in a setting of intense cultural disparity, even if they spoke different dialects and would have conversed through sign language, they were able to unite under one chief—Col. Lyman W. V. Kennon.
Now why would America allot more than USD2,000,000.00 (take note, that amount was during the turn of the 20th century) just to build a road leading to Baguio City? The answer was quite simple: It felt like home to them and its unique beauty had to be shared with the rest of the world.
Soon enough, they must have gotten tired of the long travel time just to get to that place we now know as Baguio City. So they followed a carabao trail to create the Kennon Road. There are a lot more details included in this story, like the change of leadership from Captain Mead to Col. Kennon, the mistake which turned into the famous zigzag road, and the workers who died of malaria.
An article written by Ernesto R. Zarate, FPIA entitled “Kennon Road and Baguio,” published in GoBaguio.com gives a comprehensive story of the Kennon Road. According to this piece, Cameron Forbes, the governor-general of the Philippines during that time placed a bet with Col. Lyman Kennon on getting the road done by January 30, 1905. And upon accepting the challenge, all workers exerted more effort to support their chief. Come January 29, the workers stood along the road and cheered as Col. Kennon drove in a carromata straight up to Baguio.
Wow, world peace!
Good Morning Baguio
Morning broke on the day of the launch and everything in Baguio looked like a beautiful dream. We stepped out of Villa Mia Apartelle, a cozy and affordable hotel located at  Dominican Road near the Lourdes Grotto. Before the official program started, I hung around the famous Lion’s Head, watching tourists stop and take their photos by the huge rock, which, by the way, was once just a giant piece of limestone rock that was believed to be a guardian of Baguio.
And then there he was, the man I have been anticipating to see since I learned that I would be going to Baguio the strawberry taho vendor.
I’ve never tried it before that moment but it was definitely a great 15-peso worth of heaven. The soybean curd sweetened by natural syrup and strawberry chunks melted in my mouth and warmed me up as I enjoyed the cool air of Baguio.
As I was indulging in strawberry taho, a gentleman wearing a crisp button-down polo shirt with neatly waxed hair approached me for a chat. Apparently, his name is like those of characters in Mexican telenovelas Vladimir Cayabas.
He bid goodbye by saying, “I have to go, magbabahag lang ako.”
And a few minutes after, Vladimir, who’s a school administrator of NIIT, came out wearing his traditional bahag, ready to perform their traditional dance for the program. It is amazing how the people of Baguio take pride in their heritage and culture, something which the rest of our countrymen should emulate.
After the ceremonial run and the official program, I had the opportunity to eat an authentic pinikpikan for lunch. This popular Cordillera dish has a unique method of preparation which includes the light beating of a live chicken, to keep the blood inside it.
But more than being a flavorful dish, the preparation of pinikpikan is actually a ritual of the Cordillera tribes which helps them determine their next courses of action. They believe that fate and luck can be foretold by the chicken’s liver and bile after the light beating.
The tribal priest reads this. If the liver is covering the bile, it is called calub and if the bile can be clearly seen, it is called cherwey. The latter means good luck and it gives a go signal for hunting, planting and other ventures. But when the preparation results into calub, the whole process is repeated until they achieve the cherwey.
Nighttime came in the city of Baguio and our host for a dinner meeting picked an incredible restaurant as its venue The Hill Station Tapas Bar and Restaurant. It is located at the Casa Vallejo, on Upper Session Road and there was a remarkable creativity poured into the development of the dishes.
Opening our palate was the Tuna Tataki with light wasabi mayo. It was a pepper-crusted half-smoked tuna sashimi that simply explodes with flavors. Another personal favorite was the Crispy Duck Flakes which is a slow cooked duck, flaked and fried, then served over laing sa gata. It offered different dimensions in texture and flavor as the saltiness of crispy flakes beautifully blended with the sweet coconut milk cooked into the smooth taro leaves.
Meeting Manong Nars
For our last day in Baguio, before we headed back to Manila, we were honored to be guests in the home of a very inspiring and remarkable man named Narciso Padilla who is also known to his peers as Manong Nars. His lovely cabin was perched at Tam-Awan, Benguet and it has a beautiful view of the breathtaking lush mountains of the Cordillera.
According to him, he bought that land some decades ago when it only cost R2.00 per square meter. Beside this cute cabin with a uniquely-shaped roof was their bigger home, which houses his office filled with memorabilia, plaques, trophies and photos of his accomplishments.
“These remind me of how hard I worked,” Manong Nars said.
And true enough, Manong Nars has been one of the most-loved people of Baguio especially with his notable civic works for the youth and sports. Some of his accomplishments include bringing the first Philippine team to the Special Olympics wherein they bagged medals despite being a rookie team, holding a marathon for the blind which were led by clappers, and training a lot of our national athletes.
Manong Nars in now 80 years old and he lives with his wife in that adorable home. He definitely still looks athletic and he still works for the development of sports tourism in Baguio City among other advocacies. I will always be inspired by his personal motto: From dusk to dust, if nobody does, I must.
Baguio is home to a lot of outstanding individuals who live with passion and heart for the betterment of our society. When in Baguio, a positive sense of pride in heritage, amazement in culture, appreciation of God’s natural gifts and the drive for excellence can be clearly felt.
City-dwellers are lucky to have access to this beautiful city so that once in a while, we are able to escape to pine-filled paradise. And driving along Kennon road, as we enter and exit Baguio City, we get to enjoy a scenic journey which is as fun as the destination.
For comments or suggestions on where I can wander next, please don’t hesitate to e-mail me at coral.lucci@gmail.com. You can also check the details of the Kennon Global Marathon at www.kennonmarathon.com.